Denim Breakthrough

Jeans. The do it all. I wear them most days and a good snatched (as the kids say – I think?) pair can make your mood lift from meh to world takeover status. Sadly, however, they can also doom your day if the fit is wrong. So? Let’s go over some things to keep in mind when shopping this wardrobe staple.

Fabric Content

We, my friends, are living in times of peak comfy. I hear so much chatter about how soft clothing is or should be. And while cozy certainly has a place, I would argue its place is not in your jeans. Hear me out! Denim with too much stretch (anything over 10% MAX) will feel good in the fitting room and then very quickly wear its way into a sagging bottom. Blech. Who wants that? Denim should have a certain amount of inherent structure. Of course we want it to move and not feel like a restrictive straight jacket for our hips and thighs, but too much stretch and your jeans will quickly lose any shape and descent into a very unflattering sag. Look for high cotton count and keep your stretch minimal. And, pro tip, don’t toss jeans with elastin in the dryer. The heat stretches the fibres and whatever snatching (look at me go!) effects it did have will be gone in a couple wash cycles. Hang dry wherever possible.

Cut

I am a forever fan of the wide leg. They are universally flattering (I swear!), feel a little elevated and easily work for professional looks as well as weekend grocery runs. I also love a good boot cut/flare. If you’re on the shorter side just look for jeans in a length (inseam) to as close as what you need as possible off the rack. When the silhouette flares, you’re at risk of trimming off the whole flare and leaving a slightly strange line. Many stores offer shorter/petite/ankle length cuts so for this shape keep that in mind. And for you millennials, yes, you can keep your skinnies. Skinnies still work great in boots, pair nicely with heels and if they’re the silhouette you’re most drawn to – have at it. Boyfriend/baggy fits can be cute for weekend and casual looks – just be sure it’s loose but not baggy or ill-fitting. Too big rarely does anyone any favours.

Photo: Maude Frédérique Lavoie

Colour
This could just be my own preference but typically for a more elevated jean I steer my clients to a solid, darker wash. Jeans fade with time, obviously, so they won’t stay so intensely dark their whole life but if it’s office appropriate denim you’re after – darker fits the bill. Looking for something more casual? A lighter wash has a relaxed, lived-in feel and is a great choice for your basic pair. Do remember to keep dark washes away from lighter colours in the wash (I am mildly laundry obsessed so apologies for all the washing talk!) and remember that super dark wash denim may transfer colour for the first several washes and wear. Watch your whites – especially your canvas runners. You’ve been warned!

Faves
Finally, some recos of my fave brands. Denim can run you anywhere from $30 (fast fashion houses) to upwards of $500 (I wish I was kidding…) and you don’t always get what you pay for. For a fail-proof strategy keep in mind fabric content, expected lifespan (a trendy barrel jean, for example, probably has a shorter trend lifecycle than a straight or wide leg) and how you intend to wear them (casually for date night vs styled with a tee and blazer for your next presentation). This list is not comprehensive but just a reflection of what I like personally and what works for many of my clients.

Curvy – try American Eagle. Sydney Sweeney controversy aside, many of my clients find these a good fit for curves and they’re always available in a wide selection of cuts and washes.

Snatched – for a solid cotton content that will keep you feeling tucked in I do like Aritzia’s Denim Forum personally. They’re mid-price point, come in standard and curvy fit, and pull you in at all the right places. My main objection here is I find their size range a bit limited and in store you may have trouble finding much above a 30 which is annoying but as women we already know you can’t have it all, right? I also love AGOLDE in this category but their price point is investment level. Consider if it’s a style you’ll want to keep for several years to come. Cotton content is lovely and they wear beautifully.

Relaxed – as a teen of the 90s I also hold a soft spot for The GAP. I do sometimes find their stretch content a little high and the attention to detail (sewn hems, etc) isn’t always A+ but I typically find them priced well, consistent in sizing (vanity sizing here which means you may need to size down – I do by one to two sizes actually) and with a flush supply of current trends, styles and washes you can usually find what you’re after.

Good quality/Mid-range – many MANY of my clients swear by But from the Kloth. They too have a range of cuts, washes and styles and are seemingly (FINALLY) designed with a woman’s shape in mind. Who knew?! And happily my local shop is running a sale on Kut this weekend. Shop the full range here

Honourable mention – Spanx. Yes, they make jeans now. Truthfully I have not tried them myself but the internet loves them and when has the internet been wrong? I kid! Nonetheless, they have a great reputation, come in a variety of lengths (hurray!) and incorporate that Spanx fit we all love. They are an investment so you may wish to try before you buy but certainly worth consideration.

Good luck out there! I hope this helps!

LEAH GUST

STYLIST

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